Some days are great for surfing, others are better suited to sitting round drinking tea or coffee and just sheltering from the wind.
After missing a paddling session I tend to get withdrawl symptoms and my body craves the water.
Yesterday I went out with Yosi, he in his new Zypher, all shiny and green. When we got to the rock that we usually surf, we were faced with a couple of really huge waves that made us both turn and run for our home beach
This morning the sea was still wild, smaller but strong. Zohar and I went out for a play session. the waves were no good for anything except bouncing about. We played in the soup zone for a while and had a lot of trouble punching back out after beaching . Just when you think you have made it , along comes a large wave and pushes you back. Heres a short video showing Zohar playing in the waves. You definitly need a strong roll in these conditions.
|I managed to loose a lens from my glasses in the surf, I guess it was bound to happen in such rough stuff.|